Kalymos, Greece

A lesson in trying hard

Kalymnos, Greece

After 5 weeks in the magical land of Kalymnos, Greece and I am at last able to share. When I got here, I was near my tipping point and slowly I've let go, sunk into a ritual pattern of climbing, sleeping, socializing and resting. I've also begun to dream again.

After an intense summer of training and exams, I wasnt' sure if I would even want to climb when I arrived here. But the rock has been so seductive and living so good that even the most fatigued could not help but be invigerated.

Before I came, I faintly fantasized about being able to climb 5.12 on this trip. I didn't put much thought into this dream – it seemed like a good number, and one that was sufficiently hard. But I didn't really believe I could do it – so faint was my drive at the time – having invested so much into the guides exams of the past year. On my first day climbing here – the dream seemed utterly unobtainable as I flailed my way up a route of 5.11- on top rope and felt shaky leading 5.10.

Working Priapius in the Grande Grotto.

And yet, in the last week, I've been not only able to red-point a few 5.12's but have managed to climb my personal best red-point of 7b+ (5.12c) and my personal best onsight – two actually - of 7a+(5.12a). So what happened? Aside from the observation that the grades may be soft here, I am still climbing the best of my life.

These numbers only begin to tell the story – since they don't really matter and I am but a moderate climber amidst this world of sport climbers.  However, grades in climbing are in some ways but a useful indicator of how we are doing – something that I use to measure myself against a goal. What I am deeply interested in is how I can take tangible lessons from achieving a goal in climbing and transfer it into my life.

Lilla Molner trying hard & inspiring me to do the same

When I first arrived here – I was fascinated by the truly good climbers who were here for the North Face Climbing Festival. I saw something embodied by these men and women that tickled a dormant spark within me. I saw their passion, discipline, tenacity, deep participation in a community and their capacity for elite performance. I was impressed by not only their physical prowess – but also their emotion control. I was inspired. I was also very humbled.

A few days later, as I continued to bumble my way up the moderate grades here in Kalymnos – I did little research. Thanks google for producing an amazing query to my question: “How to climb hard”. http://gripped.com/2010/12/sections/articles/think-and-climb-hard-the-five-habits-of-successful-climbers/

I've read and re-read this article and here is what I took away. I've been trying to apply this not only to climbing – but also thinking quite a bit about how I can apply this into my larger life.

1.  Do it a lot. They say to excel at something you must do it 10,000 times. For climbing this means 10,000 routes. Whatever the nomenclature – to climb well you have to climb frequently. That is the beauty of this trip is that I've had a chance to focus on climbing. To be good at anything in life – you have to put your time in, be devoted and be committed.

I find this so true in my life at large. If one wants to be exceptional at things they they currently lack the foundation in – then some life restructuring needs to take place. For instance, as I work toward becoming a full ski guide – I must work many many hours as an apprentice ski guide and back-country skier. As I work towards the goal of being calm, happy and fulfilled – I must patiently cultivate the path of abundance, yoga and meditation. Even though I may initially find these pursuits hard.

The famous 'Koala Bear' rest that I mastered.

2. Visualize yourself succeeding. This point is so valuable. I've discovered that if I try a route with an internal voice that doesn't quite see how it will all work out – I almost never succeed. If I instead will the voice of self-belief to be heard – no matter how artificial it may seem – I am far more likely to succeed. I've been developing this skill by visualizing the moves of a route – much as I did as a gymnast.
 

Transferring this skill into life continues to be far more difficult. I've always done well with things I believe I am good at, but never quite realized why. Conversely, I struggle to try things that I think I may fail at to the point that I rarely try them. In climbing this means that I am far better at red-pointing something that on sighting. So I am working at visualizing achieving my larger goals in life and inviting that voice of self-belief to be a little stronger.

Sometimes trying hard hurts

3. Know your weakness and train it. I've intentionally been seeking out my climbing weakness on this trip. For instance – I know I do well on routes that have chimneys, stemming and trad options in them since my skills as a traditional climber shine. Indeed – the hardest climb I did here Tufantastic (7b+) - unfolded for me with a clever knee bar and 3 meters of arm bars. However, I also challenged myself to climb Ivy (7B) & a powerful cruxy 7a+ at Arhi precisely because they forced me to learn new skills.

In life this lesson requires tremendous self-awareness. For to truly challenge your weakness' one must have an hones self dialogue, insightful friends and a way to gauge progress.  This means I've been intentionally seeking out things that I am really bad at, learning to ask for help from others and trying to be more honest about all those little (and big) life failures. 

Having fun while red-pointing a route

4. Have a clear goal – and then set intermediate goals. This point has been critical to me. Rather than getting so caught up in achieving a climb of a certain grade, I made a series of goals that have to do with process. For example, I've set goals of trying to climb more 5.11's onsight, to climb with fluidity and without fear, to fall instead of taking when I do have fear and to develop the skill of falling.

 I also realized that a foundational hallmark of very good climbers was that they always lead. Period. Even on routes that are exceptionally hard for them – they still climb on lead, even if it is bolt to bolt, take huge falls, and might not even make the top. In developing this skill I've learned that I can frequently climb routes bolt to bolt and make the chains. I've also learned that I climb much better on lead and have far more of a sense of satisfaction at putting in my own draws

Transferring this skill into life demands that a larger goal can be broken up into smaller segments and is related to training your weakness. It also demands incredible self-awareness in identifying appropriate process goals that will help me move towards a larger goal. As someone who sets high expectations, a process goal for me is actually giving myself credit for the small victories – which is something I've always found quite challenging.
And - I'm working on 'falling' or putting myself in those situations of possible failure a little bit more.  The fear comes up just as in climbing ... but unfortunately its a little tougher to jump knowing that a trustworthy belayer will catch me!

Cathy and I on the Pirate ferry heading to Telendos

5) Who you spend time with matters. I have been so fortunate on this trip to climb with amazing people – most notably my dear friend Jessie Brown. He inspires me, challenges me and knows exactly how and when to push me. Importanyly, he believed in me when I didn't believe in myself.

I've long known that I climb better with women. Niko, Tami, Lilla and Cathy all belayed me on some of my hardest routes with a gentle encouragement that only another woman could provide. 

In life ... I think I've long known this point and have been so fortunate to have such incredible friends and mentors.  

At the end of my trip ... what matters to me in the end not how hard I climbed, but who I spent time with and what I learned about myself that I can apply back into my life.  Thanks to all the amazing friends with whom I've spent time.  It has been a blast!

A big thanks to Joe Stock and Marc Piche for their photos.  Their photos & blogs can be found at:
http://www.stockalpine.com/posts/kalymnos.html
http://www.marcpichephotography.com/Climbing/Rock-Climbing/Kalymnos-Greece-2012

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